I hate rivets...

Yesterday I had a job interview, and wasn't able to get much work done on the FC. Today I decided to change that. I began the day with a trip to Frank's favorite store to get a few things. I have been reading that alot of people are using spring punches during rivet removal. I bought one. I also picked up a quick connector set for the air compressor, 25 feet of air hose, a pneumatic cut-off tool, a 10 pack of Milwaukee sawz-all blades, can of WD-40, quarter angle drill, and an air sprayer nozzle for the compressor. When I got home, this was what I had awaiting in a lonely front porch box.
All I need now is some galvanized screen, and my windows will be finished for installation. Since I need to replace the floor, I will have to drop the belly pan. I began by removing the rivets around the wheel well that actually rivet to the galvanized well. Upon removal, I found this.

Full Wheel Well

Corrosion on the right

Corrosion on the left

Since the aluminum and galvanized steel were together, I have a fail amount of corrosion on the steel. I also think the wheel well aluminum cover was replaced before since there are extra holes in the underlying skin and wheel wells. My biggest worry is how to put humpty dumpty back together again when I am all done. Should I use olympics since the three legs will splay out? Aerowood on the Airforums suggested using a washer behind the skin so a buck rivet can fit and have something to grab on to. What material would work best since I don't want more corrosion? Will the washer be large enough to not pull through the corroded area?

I keep moving on after this, and start taking the rivets out of the belly pan. These rivets hold the skin, belly pan, and C-channel all together. Then I got to a point with HUGE popped rivets. They looked like shirt buttons they were do damned big. After removing them, this is what I was left with.

Here are holes that no 5/32 cleco or rivet will fit through. In fact, I have been rilling out these rivets with a 1/8 inch bit damn near center every time, and I have many that a 5/32 cleco will not secure into. What do I do now other than replace the panel (Which I am NOT doing).

I also began to take the rear rub railing off, but most the the screws are rusted to tightly, that even spraying them for 8 times so far with WD-40, they are not budging. Speaking of rusty screws that aren't budging...here are the ones in the front that are giving me hell.

Once I broke as many drill bits as I was going to for the day, and gave myself one hell of a gash in my pointer finger, I called it quits. My 18v drill's motor was really hot from running through rivets like it was. I will look for an air drill to keep from burning out the motor on my nice cordless drill from here on out. After all the drilling, I decided to go and cleco every spot I could find that would hold with 1/8 or 5/32 fasteners.

Vertical on the panel, and across the belly pan

Front Window Clecos

Behind the wheel well curbside.

In closing, I must say I am learning a lot of good information. I can safely say that the factory DID screw up from time to time. Take a look below at one of numerous double holes that had one rivet installed over both. No wonder this thing had a ton of leaks.

On the ponder list for next week is to use vulkem/sikaflex on the panels or rivets when reinstalling them (while bucking, or afterwards). I hope all three of you enjoyed this latest entry.